After three nights and four days of relaxation, great food, working out at the gym and shopping, Tom and I are prepairing to board a overnight train South to the base of the Nile at Aswan.
We booked into the Fairmont Towers Hotel, in the affluent Cairo suburb of Heliopolis, on Christmas Eve in order to take our minds off of being so far away from home. From mince pies, to Guinness, to Tom's favorite Monte Cristo cigars, and a buffet turkey dinner, this hotel had everything.
We even ventured out to the City Stars Mall yesterday. Costing $800 Million to build it includes two hotels, numerous restaurants and 250 shops. We even enjoyed a Second Cup coffee! Don't know how it came to be in Egypt, but the barristas were even wearing polos with the Egyptian and Canadian Flags. It was nice to see a bit of home on the other side of the world.
I think I am going to have to drag Tom out of the hotel tonight (he is now calling it home) because we did spend the crazy $120 US (all tickets are sold in US dollars, strange I know) to book this 12 hour train ride.
Hope everyone had a lovely Christmas and that no one was stuck in an airport at any time!
Saturday, December 27, 2008
Thursday, December 25, 2008
A Look at our Egyptian Experience so far
Sakkara...there is a sandstorm going on, hence the stance
Taking it all in 
Us in Giza
Commonwealth Cemetary at El Alamain
Tom at the El Alamain and Alexandria museums
Tuesday, December 23, 2008
Egypt - Week One
Hello from Cairo and Happy Holidays to all. We flew into Cairo last Monday, arriving close to midnight. After a day in what has to be the busiest city I have ever been in, we headed NorthWest by train to Alexandria, in order to get used to Egypt and the madness of the traffic. As well, Tom's interest in the North African campain of WWII made El Alamain a major destination for us.
We found, thanks to Lonely Plant, a great hotel, The Union, over looking the harbour with satelite TV for a little more than $20US. With not much in the way of nightlife, other than shopping such great establishments as Demi Moore, Tommy XXL, Fabulous, and Dangerous Fashion (yes, those are the names, and the English labels written on peoples clothing are sometimes abolutely hilarious and make no sense whatsoever - such as something like Motorscooter and Fitch, or Pillow head lover) the variety of English movies was great. So, we spent four nights eating devine baklava from this 1920s relic called Delices and trying Egyptian wine, which seems for the most part to come from Lebanon to be bottled in Egypt.
We spent the days taking in the sights, trying the local food and sheesha. The Alexandria Library, located next to the University was truly a modern architectural work of art. Little of the great city built by Alexander the Great remains, however, the city's museum does give a hint to the past from the Roman Period, through the Islamic and also the time spent by more recent Europeans begining with Napoleon's stay. A walk through the streets of the city centre past the fine architecture gives more of an idea how important this city was to Europeans during the 1880s and early 1900s. The coffee and croissants (although I have to say I am now quite sick of croissants) from the cafés were a serious treat.
The food, I have to say is far better than Morocco, although the gauking men are far worse. The seafood in Alexandria was amazing. One place we tried had us choose from the catch of the day, and then while we waited for it to be cooked, served us salads and tahini with pita. We also found a great sheesha place where 50cents gets you an apple sheesha, and the drinks were around a euro or less. Very relaxing yet authentic.
Our trip to El Alamain prooved a great sucess. We booked a tour with a guide (who really didn't do much but it was a package deal) and drive to take us an hour and a half out of the city. The museum to our surprise was pretty well put together, and is frequently visited by veterens of the campaign. The loot of military leftovers found out in the desert was truly amazing. They included a Canadian transport truck found in the Libyan desert in 1997, countaining suplies, as well as the bodies of two soldiers. Uniforms, implements, weapons, vehicles, etc., from the allies as well as the Germans and Italians are on desplay.
We were also taken to the Commonwealth cemetary. A very well maintained plot, where every November 4th veterans gather to celebrate the victory and remember the fallen.
It was a bit hard for me to leave the more relaxed atmosphere of Alex behind, but we still hadn't seen the pyramids or go through the great Egyptian Museum. So we caught the train back and this time book into the very central Canadian Hostel. They arranged a trip to the pyramids for us, as well as doing our laundry for a small fee.
So, yesterday I walked away from the visit to the Pyramids with mixed emotion. They are truly a sight to see, being of course the remaining wonder of the ancient world, but the hassle was a bit much. I wish I could say you get used to being bothered to buy this, take rides, etc., but I have to say it still drives me nuts, especially when the guy who is trying to get you to take a camel ride, is following you down the road and getting angry at you, while you (Tom, because I am just a lowly foreign woman, and they usually just talk to him) are politely refusing. The other thing that struck me was the garbage. It is everywhere, especially around Kheops, the largest and finest of the great pyramids. The Giza area is a must see, but I have to say those things made my trip less pleasing.
We did also see Sakkara, the ancient city where the first step pyramid of Zoser is located. Today we discovered online that Egyptolists have found more to the city than was origionally believed. So, the men with hardhats we saw around the site yesterday were making a huge discovery.
The final place on our tour of Pharonic Egypt was the ancient city of Memphis, the capital during most of this period. Its former glory is long gone, but there is a museum containing a huge statue of King Ramses II, as well as numerous other statues.
We finised yesterday off with a fine meal of Egyptian food at Farfela, a Cairo institution, which has appeared in Gormet Magazine, but has also served the likes of Jimmy Carter. All I have to say is that the food is superb, my favorite being the felafel, or for Egyptians, ta'amiyya.
Today we spent numerous hours in the Egyptian Museum. With over 100,000 artifacts on display it is really hard to see everything, but using the Cairo Lonely Planet as our guide, we saw all of the highlights. Most impressive were the royal mummy rooms, mostly becase I recently saw a documentary detailing how they discovered the mummy of Queen Hatchepsut using modern technology, as well as the King Tut exhibit.
Tomorrow we are off to the Fairmont outside of town to enjoy a Christmas there. We're both feeling a bit homesick at the moment. Tom is pretty sick of me wishing I could find a candycane and looking everywhere.
So, from us, Happy Holidays, Merry/Happy Christmas!
We found, thanks to Lonely Plant, a great hotel, The Union, over looking the harbour with satelite TV for a little more than $20US. With not much in the way of nightlife, other than shopping such great establishments as Demi Moore, Tommy XXL, Fabulous, and Dangerous Fashion (yes, those are the names, and the English labels written on peoples clothing are sometimes abolutely hilarious and make no sense whatsoever - such as something like Motorscooter and Fitch, or Pillow head lover) the variety of English movies was great. So, we spent four nights eating devine baklava from this 1920s relic called Delices and trying Egyptian wine, which seems for the most part to come from Lebanon to be bottled in Egypt.
We spent the days taking in the sights, trying the local food and sheesha. The Alexandria Library, located next to the University was truly a modern architectural work of art. Little of the great city built by Alexander the Great remains, however, the city's museum does give a hint to the past from the Roman Period, through the Islamic and also the time spent by more recent Europeans begining with Napoleon's stay. A walk through the streets of the city centre past the fine architecture gives more of an idea how important this city was to Europeans during the 1880s and early 1900s. The coffee and croissants (although I have to say I am now quite sick of croissants) from the cafés were a serious treat.
The food, I have to say is far better than Morocco, although the gauking men are far worse. The seafood in Alexandria was amazing. One place we tried had us choose from the catch of the day, and then while we waited for it to be cooked, served us salads and tahini with pita. We also found a great sheesha place where 50cents gets you an apple sheesha, and the drinks were around a euro or less. Very relaxing yet authentic.
Our trip to El Alamain prooved a great sucess. We booked a tour with a guide (who really didn't do much but it was a package deal) and drive to take us an hour and a half out of the city. The museum to our surprise was pretty well put together, and is frequently visited by veterens of the campaign. The loot of military leftovers found out in the desert was truly amazing. They included a Canadian transport truck found in the Libyan desert in 1997, countaining suplies, as well as the bodies of two soldiers. Uniforms, implements, weapons, vehicles, etc., from the allies as well as the Germans and Italians are on desplay.
We were also taken to the Commonwealth cemetary. A very well maintained plot, where every November 4th veterans gather to celebrate the victory and remember the fallen.
It was a bit hard for me to leave the more relaxed atmosphere of Alex behind, but we still hadn't seen the pyramids or go through the great Egyptian Museum. So we caught the train back and this time book into the very central Canadian Hostel. They arranged a trip to the pyramids for us, as well as doing our laundry for a small fee.
So, yesterday I walked away from the visit to the Pyramids with mixed emotion. They are truly a sight to see, being of course the remaining wonder of the ancient world, but the hassle was a bit much. I wish I could say you get used to being bothered to buy this, take rides, etc., but I have to say it still drives me nuts, especially when the guy who is trying to get you to take a camel ride, is following you down the road and getting angry at you, while you (Tom, because I am just a lowly foreign woman, and they usually just talk to him) are politely refusing. The other thing that struck me was the garbage. It is everywhere, especially around Kheops, the largest and finest of the great pyramids. The Giza area is a must see, but I have to say those things made my trip less pleasing.
We did also see Sakkara, the ancient city where the first step pyramid of Zoser is located. Today we discovered online that Egyptolists have found more to the city than was origionally believed. So, the men with hardhats we saw around the site yesterday were making a huge discovery.
The final place on our tour of Pharonic Egypt was the ancient city of Memphis, the capital during most of this period. Its former glory is long gone, but there is a museum containing a huge statue of King Ramses II, as well as numerous other statues.
We finised yesterday off with a fine meal of Egyptian food at Farfela, a Cairo institution, which has appeared in Gormet Magazine, but has also served the likes of Jimmy Carter. All I have to say is that the food is superb, my favorite being the felafel, or for Egyptians, ta'amiyya.
Today we spent numerous hours in the Egyptian Museum. With over 100,000 artifacts on display it is really hard to see everything, but using the Cairo Lonely Planet as our guide, we saw all of the highlights. Most impressive were the royal mummy rooms, mostly becase I recently saw a documentary detailing how they discovered the mummy of Queen Hatchepsut using modern technology, as well as the King Tut exhibit.
Tomorrow we are off to the Fairmont outside of town to enjoy a Christmas there. We're both feeling a bit homesick at the moment. Tom is pretty sick of me wishing I could find a candycane and looking everywhere.
So, from us, Happy Holidays, Merry/Happy Christmas!
Thursday, December 18, 2008
A Few of the Last Days in Morocco
Doorways in Essaouira Tom at Rick's Café
Inside the Mosque
Tiny Katie outside of the Doorway to the Hassan II Mosque
Inside the MosqueSunday, December 14, 2008
From Casablanca to Cairo
We're on our last day in Morocco. Six weeks have gone by rather quickly, however filled with what seems like a years worth of adventures.
We came to Casablanca without expectations, which I think is the best way to approach country's biggest and busiest city. Other than the Hassan II mosque, third biggest in the world after Mecca and Medina, there are not many other attractions for the traveler other than the more western shopping district, including shops such as Benetton, Zara, Masimo Dutti and La Senza. The French Art Deco architecture is also quite interesting to see. The French made Casa what it is today. When they arrived all that was there was a small fishing village, tiny Medina. They left a metriopolis a behind.
After visiting the very impressive mosque (half a billion dollars US raised to build, beginning in 1986 an completed in 1993) on the first day we were left without much to do in a cold hotel room without at TV. On top of it all, Tom was sick and feeling horrible. So...after the second night at Hotel Galia, a decent budget choice, we moved to the Ramada. Very pleased are we with the decision because it has meant baths with hot water for me and a great bed for Tom, as well as satellite TV. We'll be clean and well rested, no longer sick and excited for more adventures once we reach Cairo tomorrow evening.
One more comment on the cuisine of the North African country. We did eat at Rick's Café and thoroughly enjoyed the ambiance. The food was alright. Nice hot wholemeal roll to start and of course Casablanca beer. Tom enjoyed his chili con carne with guacamole and chips, while my chicken curry with rice, chutney and rhita was ok (rice undercooked for me, but I'm picky). We topped that today though with a lovely meal at the Lonely Planet recommended Café Maure. Set among the garden and ochre coloured walls of the sqala, a bastion finished in 1769, this restaurant has the best food I have tasted in Morocco. Fresh bread, chili and tomato sauces, along with garlicky fresh olives and a selection of four tropical juices started off our meals. Tom then had grilled shrimp with roasted veggies, while I chose an assortment of five salads served on a long blue wooden tray in green and yellow bowls. Gorgeous and garlicky each one, from a simple carrot and coriander, octopus with lemon and parsley, lentils in a olive oil sauce, goats cheese one greens with grapefruit dressing and finally green beans cooked perfectly in a tomato sauce: delish.
Looking forward to comparing it to the salad portion of the Middle Eastern spread or mezze.
Hoping everyone is getting ready for the holiday season. It seems a million miles away from here. We did get a little bit of a Christmas feeling yesterday at the 'mall' downtown when they played some carols and Santa came around (although we did miss Santa). Hoping for a Christmas tree at our hotel in Cairo.
We came to Casablanca without expectations, which I think is the best way to approach country's biggest and busiest city. Other than the Hassan II mosque, third biggest in the world after Mecca and Medina, there are not many other attractions for the traveler other than the more western shopping district, including shops such as Benetton, Zara, Masimo Dutti and La Senza. The French Art Deco architecture is also quite interesting to see. The French made Casa what it is today. When they arrived all that was there was a small fishing village, tiny Medina. They left a metriopolis a behind.
After visiting the very impressive mosque (half a billion dollars US raised to build, beginning in 1986 an completed in 1993) on the first day we were left without much to do in a cold hotel room without at TV. On top of it all, Tom was sick and feeling horrible. So...after the second night at Hotel Galia, a decent budget choice, we moved to the Ramada. Very pleased are we with the decision because it has meant baths with hot water for me and a great bed for Tom, as well as satellite TV. We'll be clean and well rested, no longer sick and excited for more adventures once we reach Cairo tomorrow evening.
One more comment on the cuisine of the North African country. We did eat at Rick's Café and thoroughly enjoyed the ambiance. The food was alright. Nice hot wholemeal roll to start and of course Casablanca beer. Tom enjoyed his chili con carne with guacamole and chips, while my chicken curry with rice, chutney and rhita was ok (rice undercooked for me, but I'm picky). We topped that today though with a lovely meal at the Lonely Planet recommended Café Maure. Set among the garden and ochre coloured walls of the sqala, a bastion finished in 1769, this restaurant has the best food I have tasted in Morocco. Fresh bread, chili and tomato sauces, along with garlicky fresh olives and a selection of four tropical juices started off our meals. Tom then had grilled shrimp with roasted veggies, while I chose an assortment of five salads served on a long blue wooden tray in green and yellow bowls. Gorgeous and garlicky each one, from a simple carrot and coriander, octopus with lemon and parsley, lentils in a olive oil sauce, goats cheese one greens with grapefruit dressing and finally green beans cooked perfectly in a tomato sauce: delish.
Looking forward to comparing it to the salad portion of the Middle Eastern spread or mezze.
Hoping everyone is getting ready for the holiday season. It seems a million miles away from here. We did get a little bit of a Christmas feeling yesterday at the 'mall' downtown when they played some carols and Santa came around (although we did miss Santa). Hoping for a Christmas tree at our hotel in Cairo.
Tuesday, December 9, 2008
On Moroccan Food
Essaouira's Medina from the portTom got to dig into the first steak of our Moroccan adventure last night; a gorgeous cut of meat adorned with fresh black pepper sauce and creamy mashed potatoes. Not a very Moroccan dish, but then Essaouira's flavour is more European. It's fortified Medina wall was constructed by the French architect, Théodore Cornut, who while imprisoned in the town was ordered by the sultan of the time to do so.
The food in this town has been quite a delight all round. From our first meal around the table at Dar Afram, to the extravagance of last night at the hip After 5, we have enjoyed all of the flavours.
Arriving from Spain, we came with expectations of Moroccan food. Spanish cuisine, as I have learned from travels through the North and now the South, leaves much to be desired. It tends to generally be greasy and a bit bland - there are of course exceptions, tapas in San Sebastian is one - not very exciting overall.
Tangier, although not the most exciting of cities for the traveller, left us pleasantly surprised in the food department. Our first meal, a chicken pizza at Oslo was freshly made and superb. The shawarma, the last we'd have until arrival in Essaouira, almost as good as any in Ottawa. We also tried out first tarte au citron at a plush seafood restaurant, a treat that would be repeated at Marrakesh's Café des Lives. The French influence does live on in Morocco in such deserts, as well as in the morning croissants, pain au chocolat, baguette, and café au lait. Mint tea is of course unmistakeably from the Arab world. Tea so sweet it leaves your teeth screaming, is how it is usually served. Tangier had a great assortment of colonial tea houses, including the Café de Paris, a gorgeous spot equipped with chandeliers and a fountain in the centre. The French colonials did live a good life in Morocco.
Our first taste of true Moroccan food was pretty awful, as I mentioned in my post on Chefcaouen. Fès impressed us with camel burger's at Café Clock, delicious tagines and great street food, including the soft and fresh macaroons sold for 1 Durham, or 10cent. Of course there was also the expensive and disappointing palace meal; which left us un-tempted to put down that much money for one in Marrakesh, although I am sure we missed out on a magical experience (we'll have to return some day in the future for a short holiday to take in the extravagance Marrakesh has to offer).
You do hit a certain point when you are looking for something other than bread (not toast, just bread and sometimes not so fresh) for breakfast and tagine for dinner. Pizza, as we discovered this past summer in Cuba, and now again, is always a good option. Yet, the lack of heat left Tom and I searching for hot sauce at the grocery store. We were looking for something different once we arrived back to the coast.
The meals I cooked in Taghazout were a welcome change. Mostly veggie and minus the bread. The produce available in Morocco is always fresh and due to the expense of pesticides, always organic.
Now, in Essaouira we are discovering more delectable dishes than in any other city. The proximity to the sea bring in, fresh fish daily, and the local argan oil is served on everything from salads to as a topping, known as amlou, mixed with crushed almonds and honey on warm Moroccan crèpes.
Casablanca will most likely bring us back to the worldly cuisine of Marrakesh again. I have to say though, we are looking forward to a nice American breakfast at Rick's Café (unfortunately not THE one from the movie, as it was filmed on a Hollywood sound studio), as promised in the guidebook.
Sunday, December 7, 2008
Saturday, December 6, 2008
Loving the Coast
We left Taghazout with the early-morning commuters to Agadir. Direct to the bus station and two and one half hours by windy road (a few tossed cookies on the way - not on our part though) we made it to Essaouira.
We have found a nice Dar, or a traditional Moroccan townhouse in the Medina, though nothing beats our appartment view and price from Taghazout. Last night we ate, at a communal table with the other guest staying at the hotel - a mix of westerners, a gorgeous meal of soup, salad, fried fish and fruit. Alcohol is readily available at most restaurants, so we have also enjoyed a few polite beverages.
Essaouira is a laidback artsy sort of place. We've found less bother here than in either Marrakesh or Fès and have actually made a few pottery purchses to be sent back to Belfast. Today, we had a surprizingly good experience at a fixed-price pottery shop that also serves as a seller of the local women's argan oil (a local nut) cooperative. Chez Makki not only had a great selection, but the guy there made us gorgeous herbal tea and gave us extra gifts after we had chosen our purchases; all with no need to bargain.
The Medina has reminded us a bit of Cuba with its Spanish-style and decorative doors. Check out the movies, Kingdom of Heaven or the French production staring Jeremy Irons, And Now...Ladies and Gentleman, to see the town in action. Also, it was Orson Wells who first brought attention to this fishing village back in the 50s when he filmed parts of his version of Othello here. The town dedicated a park to him in 1992; however, it is not taken care of and parts of relief image of him have been distroyed.
We have found a nice Dar, or a traditional Moroccan townhouse in the Medina, though nothing beats our appartment view and price from Taghazout. Last night we ate, at a communal table with the other guest staying at the hotel - a mix of westerners, a gorgeous meal of soup, salad, fried fish and fruit. Alcohol is readily available at most restaurants, so we have also enjoyed a few polite beverages.
Essaouira is a laidback artsy sort of place. We've found less bother here than in either Marrakesh or Fès and have actually made a few pottery purchses to be sent back to Belfast. Today, we had a surprizingly good experience at a fixed-price pottery shop that also serves as a seller of the local women's argan oil (a local nut) cooperative. Chez Makki not only had a great selection, but the guy there made us gorgeous herbal tea and gave us extra gifts after we had chosen our purchases; all with no need to bargain.
The Medina has reminded us a bit of Cuba with its Spanish-style and decorative doors. Check out the movies, Kingdom of Heaven or the French production staring Jeremy Irons, And Now...Ladies and Gentleman, to see the town in action. Also, it was Orson Wells who first brought attention to this fishing village back in the 50s when he filmed parts of his version of Othello here. The town dedicated a park to him in 1992; however, it is not taken care of and parts of relief image of him have been distroyed.
Wednesday, December 3, 2008
Saharan Dunes
Climbing the dunes
oops a bit blurry
Dromedere riding with Karen and Annie
Enjoying the fire as our guide, Ibrahim plays some tunes
The caravanTwelve Days Later
Apologies for the silence on our end. After making the big decisions of my previous post we felt breathed a sigh of relief, de-stressed and then went on a bit of an adventure.
With two potentially expensive destinations off the list we could say yes to the Sahara proposal by our two new Aussie friends, Karen and Annie. After five nights in Marrakesh, we departed early, heading east, via rental car. Tom drove almost straight for 12 hours, 650km, through the Atlas Mountains to the edge of the Sahara at Erg Chigaga. We arrived a night to a nice meal provided by our hosts at Kasbah Yasmina. Having no idea what the scenery around us would look like, we awoke the following morning surrounded by massive sand dunes and bordering lake created by rainwater during the rains in October - it was awesome.
Tom and I spent the morning running up and down the dunes, exercising our legs after so many cramped hours in the car. Just prior to sun down our camels arrived for our hour long trek through the dunes to the Berber tents, set up by our hotel. Although a touristy way of experiencing Berber life in the desert it was a great time; dinner, some music, a bottle of Moroccan wine (we brought along) and stargazing.
Up for sunrise and back to the hotel to clean up.
The final three days with the car took us through the Dades and Tundra Gorges , as well as to Ouzazarte, home of Atlas Movie Studios. The snow began in the Gorges and stayed with us until we got out of the Altas. Aussie were thrilled, this Canadian, not so much.
In Ouzarzarte we toured the movie lot were such films as, Kundun, Kingdom of Heaven, Alexander, Jewel of the Nile and Cleopatra were filmed. The industry has brought over 9000 jobs to the country.
We also had got to watch the news for the first time in almost two weeks. Picked up BBC just in time to witness the beginning of the attacks in Mumbai.
Back to Marrakesh for the night and early to Agadir, home of The English Pub, among many other tourist friendly establishments. The place frankly made us both angry. I have to say it was pretty hideous, an expanded version of the mall parking lot carnival. With EasyJet flying to the nearby airport, and many international hotels (including Club Med) offering packages, you can only imagine how un-Maroccan it could be. Two nights and we got the heck out.
Here we are, only 18 km from Agadir, in Taghazout, but it feels like a million miles away. We've found a great apartment on the beach for the equivalent of 25euro a night, and I get to cook again. We've rented surfing equipment and despite the cold, have been out enjoying the waves.
A bit sore now after two days in the water, but loving it.
We've also sworn off the baguettes and the Moroccan round loafs for our stay, too many carbs already!
With two potentially expensive destinations off the list we could say yes to the Sahara proposal by our two new Aussie friends, Karen and Annie. After five nights in Marrakesh, we departed early, heading east, via rental car. Tom drove almost straight for 12 hours, 650km, through the Atlas Mountains to the edge of the Sahara at Erg Chigaga. We arrived a night to a nice meal provided by our hosts at Kasbah Yasmina. Having no idea what the scenery around us would look like, we awoke the following morning surrounded by massive sand dunes and bordering lake created by rainwater during the rains in October - it was awesome.
Tom and I spent the morning running up and down the dunes, exercising our legs after so many cramped hours in the car. Just prior to sun down our camels arrived for our hour long trek through the dunes to the Berber tents, set up by our hotel. Although a touristy way of experiencing Berber life in the desert it was a great time; dinner, some music, a bottle of Moroccan wine (we brought along) and stargazing.
Up for sunrise and back to the hotel to clean up.
The final three days with the car took us through the Dades and Tundra Gorges , as well as to Ouzazarte, home of Atlas Movie Studios. The snow began in the Gorges and stayed with us until we got out of the Altas. Aussie were thrilled, this Canadian, not so much.
In Ouzarzarte we toured the movie lot were such films as, Kundun, Kingdom of Heaven, Alexander, Jewel of the Nile and Cleopatra were filmed. The industry has brought over 9000 jobs to the country.
We also had got to watch the news for the first time in almost two weeks. Picked up BBC just in time to witness the beginning of the attacks in Mumbai.
Back to Marrakesh for the night and early to Agadir, home of The English Pub, among many other tourist friendly establishments. The place frankly made us both angry. I have to say it was pretty hideous, an expanded version of the mall parking lot carnival. With EasyJet flying to the nearby airport, and many international hotels (including Club Med) offering packages, you can only imagine how un-Maroccan it could be. Two nights and we got the heck out.
Here we are, only 18 km from Agadir, in Taghazout, but it feels like a million miles away. We've found a great apartment on the beach for the equivalent of 25euro a night, and I get to cook again. We've rented surfing equipment and despite the cold, have been out enjoying the waves.
A bit sore now after two days in the water, but loving it.
We've also sworn off the baguettes and the Moroccan round loafs for our stay, too many carbs already!
Friday, November 21, 2008
A Couple of Days making Big Decisions and Lunch with some Ladies
First off - big decisions were made in Marrakesh. After purchasing tickets for Tunis back in Fès, went back to Royal Air Maroc, paid a few more Durhams and changed our December 15th destination to Cairo.
Backpacking through Tunisia, as we discovered, would require us to prove that we are married in order to stay in the same room and we didn't really want to spend Christmas and New Years cooped up in gender specific rooms. On top of that, Libya was going to be not only a pain to get across, but also far too expensive for us. Egypt, on the other hand, has been entertaining budget travellers for decades, so the inexpensive travel there was looking far too appealing for us to resist. So, that is it, we are now researching just what we want to see and how long we want to stay, oh as well as looking forward to the armer weather.
Prior to us finding out that it was a very simple process to change the destination of a flight, we spent a good part of yesterday afternoon being served tea, biscuts, a massive plate of chicken with couscous, more tea, more biscuits, and finally very strong coffee. All of this was done while we watched Mexican soap operas dubded into Arabic. The henna also made an appearance - Katie now looks like she has been drawn on with orange felt marker.
We were invited, we could also say forced, to have lunch by a lady, Khayou, who had helped us to our Riad when we arrived in Marrakesh. We had run into her our second day in the city and she would not take no for an answer. So we met her at 12:30pm and did not leave until afternoon prayers around 3pm. A very intersting afternoon to say the least.
Spent the evening then with some Peace Corp volunteers, one currently working in Morocco and two heading home to the States after two years in Togo, we met at the Café des Livres in the Ville Nouvelle. All were excited that they had actually found a place to enjoy huge mugs of beer, including Tom of course.
Backpacking through Tunisia, as we discovered, would require us to prove that we are married in order to stay in the same room and we didn't really want to spend Christmas and New Years cooped up in gender specific rooms. On top of that, Libya was going to be not only a pain to get across, but also far too expensive for us. Egypt, on the other hand, has been entertaining budget travellers for decades, so the inexpensive travel there was looking far too appealing for us to resist. So, that is it, we are now researching just what we want to see and how long we want to stay, oh as well as looking forward to the armer weather.
Prior to us finding out that it was a very simple process to change the destination of a flight, we spent a good part of yesterday afternoon being served tea, biscuts, a massive plate of chicken with couscous, more tea, more biscuits, and finally very strong coffee. All of this was done while we watched Mexican soap operas dubded into Arabic. The henna also made an appearance - Katie now looks like she has been drawn on with orange felt marker.
We were invited, we could also say forced, to have lunch by a lady, Khayou, who had helped us to our Riad when we arrived in Marrakesh. We had run into her our second day in the city and she would not take no for an answer. So we met her at 12:30pm and did not leave until afternoon prayers around 3pm. A very intersting afternoon to say the least.
Spent the evening then with some Peace Corp volunteers, one currently working in Morocco and two heading home to the States after two years in Togo, we met at the Café des Livres in the Ville Nouvelle. All were excited that they had actually found a place to enjoy huge mugs of beer, including Tom of course.
Marrakesh, in photos
Museum of Islamic Art
At the Jardin Majorelle
Harira, Moroccan soup at the Djemaa el Fna
Djemaa el Fna from a roof-top terraceWednesday, November 19, 2008
Marrakesh
After an emotional train ride from Rabat, standing in the isle for five hours or so, we made it to Marrakesh.
Rabat was a nice break. The parisien atmosphere of long boulivards, cafés and the general uninterest in foreign travelers was a pleasant escape after Fès. We also saved quite a bit on the accomodation seeing as the prices have not risen over the years, not to many visitors venture, as well as the fact that there are a number of old hotels left over from the years of the French administeration. We also treated ourselves to a movie, Quantum of Solace, in French of course.
We did start our trip off with dinner last night at the famous Djemaa el-Fna. Other than paying a visit to the Jardin Majorelle, designed by French painter Jaques Majourelle and now owned by the Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint-Laurent (I believe still since his death this year) and the Museum of Islamic Art housed inside the electric-blue villa on the grounds, formerly Majourelle's house, our first day in this tourist-infested city was spent planning travels. All I can say now is Libya is most likely out of the tour, more to come of course.
Rabat was a nice break. The parisien atmosphere of long boulivards, cafés and the general uninterest in foreign travelers was a pleasant escape after Fès. We also saved quite a bit on the accomodation seeing as the prices have not risen over the years, not to many visitors venture, as well as the fact that there are a number of old hotels left over from the years of the French administeration. We also treated ourselves to a movie, Quantum of Solace, in French of course.
We did start our trip off with dinner last night at the famous Djemaa el-Fna. Other than paying a visit to the Jardin Majorelle, designed by French painter Jaques Majourelle and now owned by the Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint-Laurent (I believe still since his death this year) and the Museum of Islamic Art housed inside the electric-blue villa on the grounds, formerly Majourelle's house, our first day in this tourist-infested city was spent planning travels. All I can say now is Libya is most likely out of the tour, more to come of course.
Saturday, November 15, 2008
The Big Maroccan City
Fès has been quite a change from Chefchaouen. We arrived in the evening and we greeted almost right away by the hassle of the taxi men. After arguing over the price, deciding we did not want their service and would prefer a smaller and metered "petit taxi", we ended up back were we had begun and paid far too much for the trip to our hotel.
That small bit of bother was well worth it once we entered the Medina and sat down to have our first meal at Le Kasbah, one of the many restaurants at the entrance of this UNESCO heritage site. A gorgeous tagine of chicken and prunes and a beef kabab were just what we had been looking for in Morocco.
Fès has proven it's self as quite the culinary capital of our travels so far. We have enjoyed the candies from the Medina, the many tagines, as well as the roof-top terrace of a restaurant, Café Clock, run by a British ex-pat Michael, who we met while enjoying a bottle of Casablanca Lager at the Hotel Batha. Last night however, we took on the meal of meals. Following the guide book to what we read would be a small palace restaurant, Dar Jamai, we sat down for a meal that we assumed would be about 200 Dh (18 euro) for the two of us. But, no we were informed that the set menu would be made up of a number of courses at the price of 300 Dh per person. Swallowing our small bit of shock, we sat, we could not possibly just walk out. So....we ate....and ate and ate. The meal was alright, the price does put you off quite a bit after eating better meal for a lot less, as well as the wasted food that we could not possibly have taken in. It was the experience of eating in a lovely home that cost us.
In addition to all of the terrific food, we also conquered the 'terrifying' Medina without a guide and made our way to the tannery without too much bother. The government had created the position of Medina Guide, due to all of the tourists getting lost; however, what it seems to have created is a problem of increasing numbers of 'faux-guides'. We don't know what the solution to all of this would be, but acting like you are just going for a stroll seemed to have worked for us.
That small bit of bother was well worth it once we entered the Medina and sat down to have our first meal at Le Kasbah, one of the many restaurants at the entrance of this UNESCO heritage site. A gorgeous tagine of chicken and prunes and a beef kabab were just what we had been looking for in Morocco.
Fès has proven it's self as quite the culinary capital of our travels so far. We have enjoyed the candies from the Medina, the many tagines, as well as the roof-top terrace of a restaurant, Café Clock, run by a British ex-pat Michael, who we met while enjoying a bottle of Casablanca Lager at the Hotel Batha. Last night however, we took on the meal of meals. Following the guide book to what we read would be a small palace restaurant, Dar Jamai, we sat down for a meal that we assumed would be about 200 Dh (18 euro) for the two of us. But, no we were informed that the set menu would be made up of a number of courses at the price of 300 Dh per person. Swallowing our small bit of shock, we sat, we could not possibly just walk out. So....we ate....and ate and ate. The meal was alright, the price does put you off quite a bit after eating better meal for a lot less, as well as the wasted food that we could not possibly have taken in. It was the experience of eating in a lovely home that cost us.
In addition to all of the terrific food, we also conquered the 'terrifying' Medina without a guide and made our way to the tannery without too much bother. The government had created the position of Medina Guide, due to all of the tourists getting lost; however, what it seems to have created is a problem of increasing numbers of 'faux-guides'. We don't know what the solution to all of this would be, but acting like you are just going for a stroll seemed to have worked for us.
Our last day in Fès will be spent exploring the Medina some, as well as checking out the fortress like war museum, and most likely having some beers with our new Aussie buddies, Karen and Annie.
Off to Rabat tomorrow by train. Time for lunch now though! (notice the sleeping cat at Tom's feet, he seems to live at the bank machine because we have seen him sleeping there since)
Wednesday, November 12, 2008
The Blue City
Well, we will not be leaving Morocco without a Moroccan Berber carpet. Cornered on our first night in Chefchaouen by a pushy salesman and student of the world, Abdul, we agreed to come and visit his shop the following night for some Moroccan Berber Scotch, aka mint tea.
We spent the first evening in a lovely new Riad with all the fixings, Dar Echachaouen. Did however have to move down into the Medina to a much more modest place for the rest of the stay.
However beautiful a town Chefchaouen is, Tom and I did come to the conclusion that the fellow who authored section in the Morocco Lonely Planet most likely spent the majority of his time here pretty stoned, the green stuff being readily available, when he said it would be easy to spend a week here. Don't get me wrong, it is a great place to photograph, to enjoy the Rif Mountains and to do a little shopping close to the source, but you can only handle so much mint tea and food geared entirely to tourists. This means if you are looking for a filling meal, and you want something traditional, the tagines are not cooked in the oven, but instead the mixture of meat and vegetables has most likely been stewing on the stove for a number of days. Upon order, it is laddled over top of cold couscous. As you can tell, we are pretty excited at the prospect of the culinary delights Fès has to offer.
So, we depart this afternoon, not with the carpet though, because that was sent to Belfast this morning along with two lamps made of metal and coloured glass.
The carpet was quite the emotional purchase, for even if the friendly Moroccan salesman just wants to sit and talk to you over tea, practicing his English and teaching you about his culture, there is always one thing at the back of his mind, the sale. So we felt obligated, but got away with only one, after picking two for which he quoted about 350 Euro...yeah right.
In addition to the shopping, we also headed out of the town and up into the Rif Mountains for a half-day hike. An enjoyable hike that had us up into Berber territory passing women carrying mounds of brush, and shepards with their flocks of goat - goat cheese is the local specialty.
Lucky enough after the trek we headed to the bus station only to get the final two tickets for the 4hour trip down the mountains to the city of Fès.
Figured out the camera problem. Seems as though we have to many photos on one of our cards, so the computers are having a tough time recognizing them. We'll figure it out and get back to you with more. Enjoy the few of Chefchaouen.
We spent the first evening in a lovely new Riad with all the fixings, Dar Echachaouen. Did however have to move down into the Medina to a much more modest place for the rest of the stay.However beautiful a town Chefchaouen is, Tom and I did come to the conclusion that the fellow who authored section in the Morocco Lonely Planet most likely spent the majority of his time here pretty stoned, the green stuff being readily available, when he said it would be easy to spend a week here. Don't get me wrong, it is a great place to photograph, to enjoy the Rif Mountains and to do a little shopping close to the source, but you can only handle so much mint tea and food geared entirely to tourists. This means if you are looking for a filling meal, and you want something traditional, the tagines are not cooked in the oven, but instead the mixture of meat and vegetables has most likely been stewing on the stove for a number of days. Upon order, it is laddled over top of cold couscous. As you can tell, we are pretty excited at the prospect of the culinary delights Fès has to offer.
So, we depart this afternoon, not with the carpet though, because that was sent to Belfast this morning along with two lamps made of metal and coloured glass.
The carpet was quite the emotional purchase, for even if the friendly Moroccan salesman just wants to sit and talk to you over tea, practicing his English and teaching you about his culture, there is always one thing at the back of his mind, the sale. So we felt obligated, but got away with only one, after picking two for which he quoted about 350 Euro...yeah right.
In addition to the shopping, we also headed out of the town and up into the Rif Mountains for a half-day hike. An enjoyable hike that had us up into Berber territory passing women carrying mounds of brush, and shepards with their flocks of goat - goat cheese is the local specialty.
Lucky enough after the trek we headed to the bus station only to get the final two tickets for the 4hour trip down the mountains to the city of Fès.
Figured out the camera problem. Seems as though we have to many photos on one of our cards, so the computers are having a tough time recognizing them. We'll figure it out and get back to you with more. Enjoy the few of Chefchaouen.
Saturday, November 8, 2008
Interzone
We arrived into the Port of Tangier yesterday afternoon ready to be greated by the "touts", but ended up with little hastle in a taxi on our way to the hotel.
A little more hassle as we attempted to check out the medina and kasbah. A few hustlers tying to sell us wallets for 50p, 'lovely' suits for Tom, as well as kids running after us yelling 'sex'.
As has been reported by many recent visitors to this once International Zone - it was until Morrocco gained its independence - Tangier is not held on to its former glory. Gone are the glamerous days of the 1930s, the cool beat scene, and the hippie drug dens. It is a pretty uninteresting place with q few too many scam artitsts. Although, building is quite visible, so the government must be working hard to change things.
Despite this, we have felt completely save, and feel that this has been a good introduction to Morocco. We know that things will just be getting better from here because we just booked our tickets for the noontime bus to Chefchaoen, a town in the Rif Montains known for its beauty, artisans and peaceful surroundings.
No pictures yet, but I promice soon.
A little more hassle as we attempted to check out the medina and kasbah. A few hustlers tying to sell us wallets for 50p, 'lovely' suits for Tom, as well as kids running after us yelling 'sex'.
As has been reported by many recent visitors to this once International Zone - it was until Morrocco gained its independence - Tangier is not held on to its former glory. Gone are the glamerous days of the 1930s, the cool beat scene, and the hippie drug dens. It is a pretty uninteresting place with q few too many scam artitsts. Although, building is quite visible, so the government must be working hard to change things.
Despite this, we have felt completely save, and feel that this has been a good introduction to Morocco. We know that things will just be getting better from here because we just booked our tickets for the noontime bus to Chefchaoen, a town in the Rif Montains known for its beauty, artisans and peaceful surroundings.
No pictures yet, but I promice soon.
Thursday, November 6, 2008
Gibraltar and Europe´s Most Southerly Point
Had a surreal experience yesterday in Gibraltar. Needless to say we were both very impressed when we first saw "the Rock" on our bus ride to Tarifa via Algesiras on Tuesday afternoon. First thing Wednesday morning we took the hour and a half trip to the boarder.
Quite strange to flash your passport and walk through a boarder that stands on a live airstrip, but even stranger to arrive in a town that looks like the Britain of yesteryear. Of course the first thing we had to do was to find a place to have an English breakfast. There were quite a number places serving.
After that greasy experience was over with, we begin what would be a four hour journey up the rock. Stopping to check out the caves, both natural and man-made (over many years and many wars), as well as to chill with the Barbary Apes, it was a much needed bit of physical fitness for us both (also good training of the Rif Mountains to come in the next few days).
Ended the day with some shopping at Marks & Spencer, Next, and other fine UK shops and of course to the local pub for a pint.
Gibraltar is like a piece of Britain lost in time. Where the shops still look as they did in the 60´s, the pubs still have the old decor, no refurbishment has been done on the buildings in ages, and of course the smoking ban is no in.
It is a must see, if not just to say you were there.
Today was a wee bit more relaxed. Checked out what Tarifa, the small town we chose to stay in over the ugly and bigger Algesiras. Spent some time on the beach looking out at Morocco and taking it all in.
We catch the 11 am ferry tomorrow to Tangier. Ready for the experience of the harbour, but sure we will be surprised once we actually arrive. Will make sure to describe any events within the next couple of days. Will also post pictures once we get there seeing as the USB port at the hostal we are at currently does not seem to like our camera (some are now up, but it takes ages to do so).
Quite strange to flash your passport and walk through a boarder that stands on a live airstrip, but even stranger to arrive in a town that looks like the Britain of yesteryear. Of course the first thing we had to do was to find a place to have an English breakfast. There were quite a number places serving.
After that greasy experience was over with, we begin what would be a four hour journey up the rock. Stopping to check out the caves, both natural and man-made (over many years and many wars), as well as to chill with the Barbary Apes, it was a much needed bit of physical fitness for us both (also good training of the Rif Mountains to come in the next few days).
Ended the day with some shopping at Marks & Spencer, Next, and other fine UK shops and of course to the local pub for a pint.
Gibraltar is like a piece of Britain lost in time. Where the shops still look as they did in the 60´s, the pubs still have the old decor, no refurbishment has been done on the buildings in ages, and of course the smoking ban is no in.
It is a must see, if not just to say you were there.
Today was a wee bit more relaxed. Checked out what Tarifa, the small town we chose to stay in over the ugly and bigger Algesiras. Spent some time on the beach looking out at Morocco and taking it all in.
We catch the 11 am ferry tomorrow to Tangier. Ready for the experience of the harbour, but sure we will be surprised once we actually arrive. Will make sure to describe any events within the next couple of days. Will also post pictures once we get there seeing as the USB port at the hostal we are at currently does not seem to like our camera (some are now up, but it takes ages to do so).
Monday, November 3, 2008
The Alhambra
Arriving in Granada on Saturday we realised that the numbers of people granted access to the Alhambra daily was limited. So, after three days of waiting and enjoying the lovely rainy and cold weather Granada had to offer, we made it in today.
However, the palaces inside the last bastion of the Islamic Empire on Mainland Europe were truly a site to be seen. The main Nasrid Palaces are beautifully covered in arabic script, design and tiles. We will attach some more pictures from the trip tomorrow.
Now onward to Tarifa, Spain´s most southerly point.
Tom and Katie
All of that waiting gave us plenty of time to enjoy the Spanish way of life. Basically coffee, food and wine, well and a bit of shopping, seeing as Katie did not pack for the cold weather.
After getting sick of the tortilla de patatas (basically potato omelette) we discovered all of the shawarma and arabic food that Granada has to offer. Delish!
Last night we actually came across a devine spanish tapas retaurant that did not cost an arm and a leg. For those headed to this city, check out Bodega Castaneda in the Arab quarter. Wine for 2 euro a glass, which comes with free tapas and gorgeous plates of meat, cheese and veg. 25 euro left us stuffed.
However, the palaces inside the last bastion of the Islamic Empire on Mainland Europe were truly a site to be seen. The main Nasrid Palaces are beautifully covered in arabic script, design and tiles. We will attach some more pictures from the trip tomorrow.
Now onward to Tarifa, Spain´s most southerly point.
Tom and Katie
Thursday, October 30, 2008
Adios Malaga
A word of warning for anyone traveling in the S
outh of Spain, the oh-so-tempting oranges that you see on the trees everywhere are the sourest thing you have ever tasted.
After yet another night of somewhat "hatchet" behaviour, aka too much wine and beer (note to all of those who enjoy a pub quiz, Tom, Christine and I were two points away from winning last night and took away a few liquid and souvenir gifts), Tom and I finally got a bit of phys in by climbing up to Malaga's castillo. The Spanish-built fort is attached to and looks over the earlier Arab one.
Inside the massive walls we found not only a small museum (with English explanations!) but also a variety of fruits, herbs, etc., native to the region. I was far too excited when I found palmagranites, and of course ate a few (probably against the rules, but what can you do).
Enjoyed the beach with the rest of the German tourists during siesta time; Tom coming away with a wee red nose.
Off to Granada tomorrow for a bit of an intro to the Arab world.
outh of Spain, the oh-so-tempting oranges that you see on the trees everywhere are the sourest thing you have ever tasted.After yet another night of somewhat "hatchet" behaviour, aka too much wine and beer (note to all of those who enjoy a pub quiz, Tom, Christine and I were two points away from winning last night and took away a few liquid and souvenir gifts), Tom and I finally got a bit of phys in by climbing up to Malaga's castillo. The Spanish-built fort is attached to and looks over the earlier Arab one.
Inside the massive walls we found not only a small museum (with English explanations!) but also a variety of fruits, herbs, etc., native to the region. I was far too excited when I found palmagranites, and of course ate a few (probably against the rules, but what can you do).
Enjoyed the beach with the rest of the German tourists during siesta time; Tom coming away with a wee red nose.
Off to Granada tomorrow for a bit of an intro to the Arab world.
Wednesday, October 29, 2008
We have begun the journey
Thanks to Christine, from the Queens Belfast gang, we kicked off our adventure with a bang. Far too many tapas and two bottles of wine (including one of the Malagan siropy sweet variety) and we were in fine form.
Much to the dismay of the Irish getting off our EasyJet flight from Belfast the weather is not very beach holiday friendly, but it suited us just fine. Explored the lovely hilltop castillo which houses the museo archilogico prior to the night of chatter, food and wine. With sore heads managed to tackle the awesome Malaga Cathedral followed by the Picasso museum (a bit out there) before heading to siesta.
Very much enjoying the Med lifestyle, and looking forward to Morocco :)
Much to the dismay of the Irish getting off our EasyJet flight from Belfast the weather is not very beach holiday friendly, but it suited us just fine. Explored the lovely hilltop castillo which houses the museo archilogico prior to the night of chatter, food and wine. With sore heads managed to tackle the awesome Malaga Cathedral followed by the Picasso museum (a bit out there) before heading to siesta.
Very much enjoying the Med lifestyle, and looking forward to Morocco :)
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