Tuesday, April 28, 2009

A Bit about Kanchanaburi

One of the first things I noticed when Tom and I arrived in Kanchanaburi was a lack of western women around the place. There were however an over abundance of Western men, mostly older western men.

Now, this being a town of historical significance, frequented by those interested in the history of WWII and for those looking to pay their respects to family members who, in serving their countries, ended up as prisoners in this place, I did realise that more men would possibly be interested in visiting. Don't get me wrong, I did enjoy the laid back atmosphere and what I experienced in the town, but, something did bother me about the place and I noticed this even more last night as Tom and I sat at a bar enjoying a couple of cold beers as the rain poured down around us.

In high school, I read a magazine article in French class concerning prostitution in Thailand. The details in that article combined with others I had read concerning the environmental problems, pollution and the continual opening up of Thailand's Islands, which had all once been a national park, made me wonder if I ever wanted to travel to such a place. Well, I am happy I did, and I being here did make me realise that a lot is being done to combat not only the air pollution, but to encourage people to think about what they are doing to their environment.

When it comes to prostitution, well I have been to Amsterdam, I've walked down and had a drink on Patpong Road in Bangkok, and sure, it bothers me to a certain extent, but I am not going to loudly voice my opposition to it. As long as those involved are safe from harm. However, it is another thing to not only have it so obviously thrust in your face, to see very young and beautiful Thai girls with unfortunate looking much older men, and then to be sitting at a small bar and have an English man in his sixties tell me about how many of the girls at the brothel across the street he had been with and how many more were on his list. Kanchanaburi seems to be the place to go if you want to meet very lost men with low self esteem.

Another English guy (they weren't all English, just those we bumped into) Tom met had been in the town four weeks. Over the course of his first week, he met a girl, bought a house worth 60,000 pounds and it being Thai law, put it in her name. He arrived home one day, shortly after the purchase to find the locks changed, the house empty and sold. Hasn't seen her since. How stupid can one person be.

All that being said, we are happy to be back with the backpackers and 5-star holiday goers in Chiang Mai. Haven't seen much yet, but plans are in the making.

Sunday, April 26, 2009

Another Temple, but this one is Home to some Large Felines

The River Kwai, home to the famous POW built bridge and now a chilled out backpacker hangout. We arrived yesterday and automatically felt more relaxed, almost like we were back at Rawai. It's also nice to be back to the cheaper prices, that means meals for a few dollars, beers for a buck and massages, if one so desires, for about five.

The food is, of course, as delicious as always. Tom's noodle "salad" tonight was a lovely concoction of deep fried noodles, potato, tofu, garlic and ginger. He still talking about it, and I believe it will be continuously mentioned in the future.

On another note, we did some sightseeing today. Having seen all of the Australians, young and old, celebrating last night, commemorating ANZAC Day, we thought it only right to pay our respects to those to served and were held here during WWI.

Close to the River, and the traveller section of town is located the largest of several cemeteries in this area. Beautifully maintained by the Commonwealth it exists as a lovely memorial to those who gave their lives while under Japanese interment. Right next to the cemetery is the Railway Museum, which chronicles the events which took place throughout the occupation, and the building of the railway.

After lunch we took a truck journey, 40km down the road to the Tiger Temple, an animal sanctuary that is becoming quite the media star. Having been featured on PBS, CNN and Discovery Channel this is a must do for all travellers to Kanchanaburi.
Included in the entry fee is a picture session with the Tigers (38 are in captivity, the first having be brought in as cubs to the monks nine years ago when they were found abandoned by their parents, who were most likely killed by poachers)and a tour around the property which houses numerous local species. International volunteers come to help out at the large sanctuary by feeding, excercising and working with the animals. It really is a great initiative.

Friday, April 24, 2009

A Taste of What we Experienced in Cambodia






Around Angkor and Tom from one of the Cells at S-21

Wednesday, April 22, 2009

Temple Time

The last time we were in Bangkok we had just spent two months in North Africa and we just so excited to see an actual western mall that we did nothing touristy expect visit Jim Thompson House (a lovely place).

This time we spent a day taking in a couple of the Temples, as well as the magnificent Royal Palace. Despite the heat and the need to dress respectfully in long pants and closed toe shoes we spent a half day wandering around the well maintained grounds at the riverside in Bangkok.

I had been to the Palace and Wat Pho, home to the giant goldleafed reclining Buddha when I was small. Unfortunately all pictures of that first visit no longer exist, or there was no film in the camera, I don't remember exactly. Now, Tom and I have many photos of the day.

Since our day as tourists we've just been wandering the malls of Bangkok trying to figure out what to do. We're really looking forward to flying home to Belfast and putting a bit of regularity back into our lives, so that is distracting us a bit from what Bangkok has to offer.

Tomorrow we head to Kanchanabiri and the famous River Kwai by bus. We'll be staying on the river, and with plenty of outdood adventuring on offer, its bound to get us more excited about this, the end of our time in South East Asia.

Monday, April 20, 2009

Back in Bangkok, but More Important Cambodia was Great

We're arrived back into Bangkok. A city that may be under a state of emergency, but really does not show it at all. The malls are packed and we have not seem any indication that there is an increase in security. No tanks have been witnessed yet.

However, more importantly, we arrived here today after spending four days in Siem Reap. What a great little place. I have to say Cambodia is on the up and Phnom Penh and Siem Reap are leading the charge.

I found another great botique hotel at $45US a night, Golden Banana (www.goldenbanana.info), which provided all the comforts after our day at Angkor and others in town. Not only did we have a room with two large floors, but we looked out on the cool salt water pool. Equal if not better than our last hotel. You can't bet the prices, the friendly staff and the great food of Cambodia.

Oh, and Angkor, wow what a place. We decided just to do the one day trip by tuk-tuk and see the most famous sites of the huge complex. We were happy for that decision because the weather was exteremely hot. Despite that we had a great time walking around with our mouths open in awe most of the day. We'd seen pictures, and of course Tomb Raider, but nothing can compare to seen the ruins in person. The carvings are so well done and perfect, even some of those dating to the 10th Century.

Bayon, the library (among other believed uses) and building containing 200 huge images of Buddah face carved into the sandstone is the most marvelous of all. I couldn't stop taking pictures of the different facial expressions. It was truly breathtaking. I highly encorage a visit to this holy and ancient place.

The French colonial buildings that make up the town of Siem Reap have been nicely restaured in order to please the multitude of visitors to the area. Modern restaurants, shops, spas line the streets. You'll have a hard time finding a bad meal in the whole place. Angelina, while filming, volunteering and adopting, has left her mark in many of the shops. Her photos appear all over the place.

So, back to Thailand for us, though west and north this time, instead of south.

Wednesday, April 15, 2009

Relaxing in Phnom Penh

The six and a half hour bus ride from Ho Chi Minh City was surprisingly pain-free despite my having developed a cold (due to silly air-conditioner in our last guesthouse) and having to stand at Vietnamese immigration for about 30 minutes with packs on.

A short tuk-tuk ride shared with a French-Canadian kid making his way through the region found us at an oasis. I am pretty thorough when it comes to making decisions on where we stay, (that may be the reason we have only seen one cockroach in a hotel this entire trip) and I always consult as many books and websites as I can before making a decision. This process sometimes leads me to become slightly crazy, especially when I make a bad decision. No craziness this time around because I feel as though I delivered.

Seeing as we have decided to change our plane ticket for May 8th for London instead of Amman (or the very expensive to fly into Beirut), we can afford to splash out a bit more for accommodation every once in a while. When I saw that the number one ranked hotel on tipadvisor.com was a reasonably priced $40/night, I sent an enquiry email right away. Ta-da here we are at The Pavillion (http://www.thepavilion.asia/homeeng.htm).

We’re staying in a room that is part of the old building, which dates to sometime in the 1920s. A few steps from our room is a salt-water pool next to a lounge serving fabulous Khumer, French and Western dishes. As in most French colonies, the deserts are up to the Parisian standard (we’ve already had the tarte aux citron and the chocolate cake). It is a cozy tropical atmosphere with cool tunes playing while you read your book among the palms and flowers.

We did make it out of the hotel this morning to see S-21, Cambodia’s Genocide Museum. As I have seen so many times before on TV in the news or on travel shows, it is a haunting visit for all who go. School rooms turned into torture chambers with gruesome pictures of what Vietnamese troops found when they ran the Khmer Rouge out and took the city. Skulls of the victims found in mass graves all over the country, as well as rooms of posted prisoner photos tell the story of the prison without the need of words.

Our plan is to try and make it outside of the city tomorrow to see the Killing Fields; yet another horrific memorial site to all of those who perished under this brutal regime. We’re not sure if we’ll make it out seeing as we have arrived just in time for Khmer New Year, so all is very quiet about town and many shops are shut.
For tonight we'll just enjoy the hospitality and the wonderful food of Cambodia.

Sunday, April 12, 2009

Here we are in Vietnam







1. Tom at Ho Chi Minh's Mausoleum, Hanoi
2. B-52 Bomber Memorial, Hanoi
3. Turtles at the Temple of Literature, Hanoi
4. One of the many basket carrying ladies
4. Huc Bridge, Hanoi

Oh Sin-ga-pora!






1. The 'National' dish of Singapore, delish Chicken and Rice
2. Tom enjoying Fort Canning Park
3. The Famous Singapore Sling at the Raffles
4. Dinner at the Raffles
5. Katie and Sir Raffles (not sure why the computer will not flip the pictures)

This is us in KL




1. Tom in the Golden Triangle
2. Petronas Towers at night (Earth Hour, right before the lights were turned off)
3. Katie enjoying a fishy pedicure (a very interesting experience)

Saturday, April 11, 2009

Happy Easter

Those of you who still read this once and a while must have probably noticed the lack of new photos. Well, our lovely new Nikon camera has a bug. We are going to attempt to transfer all of the photos onto cd-r today, so hopefully well be able to get some up on line very soon.

Aside from that we arrived in Ho Chi Minh City a couple of days ago by plane from Hue. Tom was pretty sick in Hue, so we pretty much just relaxed in the room (most hotels in Vietnam, even budget ones, have a TV with satellite) ate pizza, and only took one trip - to the DMZ.

Let's just say, after years of war and occupation, the Vietnamese people have not really wanted to remind themselves of the past. Therefore, our trip to the DMZ was a bit boring. There is really not much to see. A long bus ride from Hue into the mountains and then the coast is really not worth it. We saw a few downed US planes, some of the areas where American bases once stood, and the DMZ, which is now just fields and fields of rice.

Probably the most interesting part of the trip was visiting the Vinh Moc tunnels that we walked through. Built along the South China Sea coast to enable the village people to avoid heavy bombardment of Americans by air and sea, these tunnels, discovered at the end of the war, provided refuge for this community for five years. Very tight, dark and a bit frightening, it is really impressive how these people went about their lives underground for such a long period of time.

Better than the DMZ tour has to be the Military Museum in Hanoi. So much information, pictures, remnants from the wars with the French and the Americans documented in two large halls. Writings within in museum still contain outdated communist rhetoric, referring to 'puppet regimes', 'American imperialists' and 'bandits' makes this tour even more interesting. They also have a large selection of downed American planes, French weaponry and an impressive sculpture created out of parts from airplanes, etc. In the same area as the musuem, you'll also find the Hoa Lo Prison, first opened by the French to house dissident Vietnamese, later used during the Vietnam War to hold downed American pilots, including John McCain.

The number of sites we visited in Hanoi, as well as the trip we took in Hue, has left us feeling we need a break from the tourist track. We've decided aside from those French colonial buildings we pass as we walk through the city, the only site we are really going to visit is the Jade Pagoda. After all, there is much shopping to be done here. As well, we're off to Angkor Wat next, so we don't want to ruin that experience by being too tired to see as much of it as we can.

Happy Easter to everyone :)

Wednesday, April 1, 2009

Finally Vietnam

After a sleepless night spent at the KL airport, we caught our 6:30am to Hanoi. Three and a half hours in the air in a plane full of very excited Vietnamese had us in the capital city of Vietnam.

In a bit of a daze, we spent a couple hours taking in the city. Not too much culture shock considering we had just spent three days in ultra-Western and modern Singapore.

Seeing as we only have a limited time of five days to see the sites, we decided to check out the famous water puppet show. Although entirely in Vietnamese, the show's music and amazingly intricate puppets made the show easy to understand. It was great to just sit back and enjoy.

I have to say, although Singapore was great. I fully agree with TV personality and chef, Anthony Bourdain statement, " if you love food, it might be the best place on earth"; however, I am happy to be back in the much cheaper part of Asia.