First off - big decisions were made in Marrakesh. After purchasing tickets for Tunis back in Fès, went back to Royal Air Maroc, paid a few more Durhams and changed our December 15th destination to Cairo.
Backpacking through Tunisia, as we discovered, would require us to prove that we are married in order to stay in the same room and we didn't really want to spend Christmas and New Years cooped up in gender specific rooms. On top of that, Libya was going to be not only a pain to get across, but also far too expensive for us. Egypt, on the other hand, has been entertaining budget travellers for decades, so the inexpensive travel there was looking far too appealing for us to resist. So, that is it, we are now researching just what we want to see and how long we want to stay, oh as well as looking forward to the armer weather.
Prior to us finding out that it was a very simple process to change the destination of a flight, we spent a good part of yesterday afternoon being served tea, biscuts, a massive plate of chicken with couscous, more tea, more biscuits, and finally very strong coffee. All of this was done while we watched Mexican soap operas dubded into Arabic. The henna also made an appearance - Katie now looks like she has been drawn on with orange felt marker.
We were invited, we could also say forced, to have lunch by a lady, Khayou, who had helped us to our Riad when we arrived in Marrakesh. We had run into her our second day in the city and she would not take no for an answer. So we met her at 12:30pm and did not leave until afternoon prayers around 3pm. A very intersting afternoon to say the least.
Spent the evening then with some Peace Corp volunteers, one currently working in Morocco and two heading home to the States after two years in Togo, we met at the Café des Livres in the Ville Nouvelle. All were excited that they had actually found a place to enjoy huge mugs of beer, including Tom of course.
Friday, November 21, 2008
Marrakesh, in photos
Museum of Islamic Art
At the Jardin Majorelle
Harira, Moroccan soup at the Djemaa el Fna
Djemaa el Fna from a roof-top terraceWednesday, November 19, 2008
Marrakesh
After an emotional train ride from Rabat, standing in the isle for five hours or so, we made it to Marrakesh.
Rabat was a nice break. The parisien atmosphere of long boulivards, cafés and the general uninterest in foreign travelers was a pleasant escape after Fès. We also saved quite a bit on the accomodation seeing as the prices have not risen over the years, not to many visitors venture, as well as the fact that there are a number of old hotels left over from the years of the French administeration. We also treated ourselves to a movie, Quantum of Solace, in French of course.
We did start our trip off with dinner last night at the famous Djemaa el-Fna. Other than paying a visit to the Jardin Majorelle, designed by French painter Jaques Majourelle and now owned by the Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint-Laurent (I believe still since his death this year) and the Museum of Islamic Art housed inside the electric-blue villa on the grounds, formerly Majourelle's house, our first day in this tourist-infested city was spent planning travels. All I can say now is Libya is most likely out of the tour, more to come of course.
Rabat was a nice break. The parisien atmosphere of long boulivards, cafés and the general uninterest in foreign travelers was a pleasant escape after Fès. We also saved quite a bit on the accomodation seeing as the prices have not risen over the years, not to many visitors venture, as well as the fact that there are a number of old hotels left over from the years of the French administeration. We also treated ourselves to a movie, Quantum of Solace, in French of course.
We did start our trip off with dinner last night at the famous Djemaa el-Fna. Other than paying a visit to the Jardin Majorelle, designed by French painter Jaques Majourelle and now owned by the Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint-Laurent (I believe still since his death this year) and the Museum of Islamic Art housed inside the electric-blue villa on the grounds, formerly Majourelle's house, our first day in this tourist-infested city was spent planning travels. All I can say now is Libya is most likely out of the tour, more to come of course.
Saturday, November 15, 2008
The Big Maroccan City
Fès has been quite a change from Chefchaouen. We arrived in the evening and we greeted almost right away by the hassle of the taxi men. After arguing over the price, deciding we did not want their service and would prefer a smaller and metered "petit taxi", we ended up back were we had begun and paid far too much for the trip to our hotel.
That small bit of bother was well worth it once we entered the Medina and sat down to have our first meal at Le Kasbah, one of the many restaurants at the entrance of this UNESCO heritage site. A gorgeous tagine of chicken and prunes and a beef kabab were just what we had been looking for in Morocco.
Fès has proven it's self as quite the culinary capital of our travels so far. We have enjoyed the candies from the Medina, the many tagines, as well as the roof-top terrace of a restaurant, Café Clock, run by a British ex-pat Michael, who we met while enjoying a bottle of Casablanca Lager at the Hotel Batha. Last night however, we took on the meal of meals. Following the guide book to what we read would be a small palace restaurant, Dar Jamai, we sat down for a meal that we assumed would be about 200 Dh (18 euro) for the two of us. But, no we were informed that the set menu would be made up of a number of courses at the price of 300 Dh per person. Swallowing our small bit of shock, we sat, we could not possibly just walk out. So....we ate....and ate and ate. The meal was alright, the price does put you off quite a bit after eating better meal for a lot less, as well as the wasted food that we could not possibly have taken in. It was the experience of eating in a lovely home that cost us.
In addition to all of the terrific food, we also conquered the 'terrifying' Medina without a guide and made our way to the tannery without too much bother. The government had created the position of Medina Guide, due to all of the tourists getting lost; however, what it seems to have created is a problem of increasing numbers of 'faux-guides'. We don't know what the solution to all of this would be, but acting like you are just going for a stroll seemed to have worked for us.
That small bit of bother was well worth it once we entered the Medina and sat down to have our first meal at Le Kasbah, one of the many restaurants at the entrance of this UNESCO heritage site. A gorgeous tagine of chicken and prunes and a beef kabab were just what we had been looking for in Morocco.
Fès has proven it's self as quite the culinary capital of our travels so far. We have enjoyed the candies from the Medina, the many tagines, as well as the roof-top terrace of a restaurant, Café Clock, run by a British ex-pat Michael, who we met while enjoying a bottle of Casablanca Lager at the Hotel Batha. Last night however, we took on the meal of meals. Following the guide book to what we read would be a small palace restaurant, Dar Jamai, we sat down for a meal that we assumed would be about 200 Dh (18 euro) for the two of us. But, no we were informed that the set menu would be made up of a number of courses at the price of 300 Dh per person. Swallowing our small bit of shock, we sat, we could not possibly just walk out. So....we ate....and ate and ate. The meal was alright, the price does put you off quite a bit after eating better meal for a lot less, as well as the wasted food that we could not possibly have taken in. It was the experience of eating in a lovely home that cost us.
In addition to all of the terrific food, we also conquered the 'terrifying' Medina without a guide and made our way to the tannery without too much bother. The government had created the position of Medina Guide, due to all of the tourists getting lost; however, what it seems to have created is a problem of increasing numbers of 'faux-guides'. We don't know what the solution to all of this would be, but acting like you are just going for a stroll seemed to have worked for us.
Our last day in Fès will be spent exploring the Medina some, as well as checking out the fortress like war museum, and most likely having some beers with our new Aussie buddies, Karen and Annie.
Off to Rabat tomorrow by train. Time for lunch now though! (notice the sleeping cat at Tom's feet, he seems to live at the bank machine because we have seen him sleeping there since)
Wednesday, November 12, 2008
The Blue City
Well, we will not be leaving Morocco without a Moroccan Berber carpet. Cornered on our first night in Chefchaouen by a pushy salesman and student of the world, Abdul, we agreed to come and visit his shop the following night for some Moroccan Berber Scotch, aka mint tea.
We spent the first evening in a lovely new Riad with all the fixings, Dar Echachaouen. Did however have to move down into the Medina to a much more modest place for the rest of the stay.
However beautiful a town Chefchaouen is, Tom and I did come to the conclusion that the fellow who authored section in the Morocco Lonely Planet most likely spent the majority of his time here pretty stoned, the green stuff being readily available, when he said it would be easy to spend a week here. Don't get me wrong, it is a great place to photograph, to enjoy the Rif Mountains and to do a little shopping close to the source, but you can only handle so much mint tea and food geared entirely to tourists. This means if you are looking for a filling meal, and you want something traditional, the tagines are not cooked in the oven, but instead the mixture of meat and vegetables has most likely been stewing on the stove for a number of days. Upon order, it is laddled over top of cold couscous. As you can tell, we are pretty excited at the prospect of the culinary delights Fès has to offer.
So, we depart this afternoon, not with the carpet though, because that was sent to Belfast this morning along with two lamps made of metal and coloured glass.
The carpet was quite the emotional purchase, for even if the friendly Moroccan salesman just wants to sit and talk to you over tea, practicing his English and teaching you about his culture, there is always one thing at the back of his mind, the sale. So we felt obligated, but got away with only one, after picking two for which he quoted about 350 Euro...yeah right.
In addition to the shopping, we also headed out of the town and up into the Rif Mountains for a half-day hike. An enjoyable hike that had us up into Berber territory passing women carrying mounds of brush, and shepards with their flocks of goat - goat cheese is the local specialty.
Lucky enough after the trek we headed to the bus station only to get the final two tickets for the 4hour trip down the mountains to the city of Fès.
Figured out the camera problem. Seems as though we have to many photos on one of our cards, so the computers are having a tough time recognizing them. We'll figure it out and get back to you with more. Enjoy the few of Chefchaouen.
We spent the first evening in a lovely new Riad with all the fixings, Dar Echachaouen. Did however have to move down into the Medina to a much more modest place for the rest of the stay.However beautiful a town Chefchaouen is, Tom and I did come to the conclusion that the fellow who authored section in the Morocco Lonely Planet most likely spent the majority of his time here pretty stoned, the green stuff being readily available, when he said it would be easy to spend a week here. Don't get me wrong, it is a great place to photograph, to enjoy the Rif Mountains and to do a little shopping close to the source, but you can only handle so much mint tea and food geared entirely to tourists. This means if you are looking for a filling meal, and you want something traditional, the tagines are not cooked in the oven, but instead the mixture of meat and vegetables has most likely been stewing on the stove for a number of days. Upon order, it is laddled over top of cold couscous. As you can tell, we are pretty excited at the prospect of the culinary delights Fès has to offer.
So, we depart this afternoon, not with the carpet though, because that was sent to Belfast this morning along with two lamps made of metal and coloured glass.
The carpet was quite the emotional purchase, for even if the friendly Moroccan salesman just wants to sit and talk to you over tea, practicing his English and teaching you about his culture, there is always one thing at the back of his mind, the sale. So we felt obligated, but got away with only one, after picking two for which he quoted about 350 Euro...yeah right.
In addition to the shopping, we also headed out of the town and up into the Rif Mountains for a half-day hike. An enjoyable hike that had us up into Berber territory passing women carrying mounds of brush, and shepards with their flocks of goat - goat cheese is the local specialty.
Lucky enough after the trek we headed to the bus station only to get the final two tickets for the 4hour trip down the mountains to the city of Fès.
Figured out the camera problem. Seems as though we have to many photos on one of our cards, so the computers are having a tough time recognizing them. We'll figure it out and get back to you with more. Enjoy the few of Chefchaouen.
Saturday, November 8, 2008
Interzone
We arrived into the Port of Tangier yesterday afternoon ready to be greated by the "touts", but ended up with little hastle in a taxi on our way to the hotel.
A little more hassle as we attempted to check out the medina and kasbah. A few hustlers tying to sell us wallets for 50p, 'lovely' suits for Tom, as well as kids running after us yelling 'sex'.
As has been reported by many recent visitors to this once International Zone - it was until Morrocco gained its independence - Tangier is not held on to its former glory. Gone are the glamerous days of the 1930s, the cool beat scene, and the hippie drug dens. It is a pretty uninteresting place with q few too many scam artitsts. Although, building is quite visible, so the government must be working hard to change things.
Despite this, we have felt completely save, and feel that this has been a good introduction to Morocco. We know that things will just be getting better from here because we just booked our tickets for the noontime bus to Chefchaoen, a town in the Rif Montains known for its beauty, artisans and peaceful surroundings.
No pictures yet, but I promice soon.
A little more hassle as we attempted to check out the medina and kasbah. A few hustlers tying to sell us wallets for 50p, 'lovely' suits for Tom, as well as kids running after us yelling 'sex'.
As has been reported by many recent visitors to this once International Zone - it was until Morrocco gained its independence - Tangier is not held on to its former glory. Gone are the glamerous days of the 1930s, the cool beat scene, and the hippie drug dens. It is a pretty uninteresting place with q few too many scam artitsts. Although, building is quite visible, so the government must be working hard to change things.
Despite this, we have felt completely save, and feel that this has been a good introduction to Morocco. We know that things will just be getting better from here because we just booked our tickets for the noontime bus to Chefchaoen, a town in the Rif Montains known for its beauty, artisans and peaceful surroundings.
No pictures yet, but I promice soon.
Thursday, November 6, 2008
Gibraltar and Europe´s Most Southerly Point
Had a surreal experience yesterday in Gibraltar. Needless to say we were both very impressed when we first saw "the Rock" on our bus ride to Tarifa via Algesiras on Tuesday afternoon. First thing Wednesday morning we took the hour and a half trip to the boarder.
Quite strange to flash your passport and walk through a boarder that stands on a live airstrip, but even stranger to arrive in a town that looks like the Britain of yesteryear. Of course the first thing we had to do was to find a place to have an English breakfast. There were quite a number places serving.
After that greasy experience was over with, we begin what would be a four hour journey up the rock. Stopping to check out the caves, both natural and man-made (over many years and many wars), as well as to chill with the Barbary Apes, it was a much needed bit of physical fitness for us both (also good training of the Rif Mountains to come in the next few days).
Ended the day with some shopping at Marks & Spencer, Next, and other fine UK shops and of course to the local pub for a pint.
Gibraltar is like a piece of Britain lost in time. Where the shops still look as they did in the 60´s, the pubs still have the old decor, no refurbishment has been done on the buildings in ages, and of course the smoking ban is no in.
It is a must see, if not just to say you were there.
Today was a wee bit more relaxed. Checked out what Tarifa, the small town we chose to stay in over the ugly and bigger Algesiras. Spent some time on the beach looking out at Morocco and taking it all in.
We catch the 11 am ferry tomorrow to Tangier. Ready for the experience of the harbour, but sure we will be surprised once we actually arrive. Will make sure to describe any events within the next couple of days. Will also post pictures once we get there seeing as the USB port at the hostal we are at currently does not seem to like our camera (some are now up, but it takes ages to do so).
Quite strange to flash your passport and walk through a boarder that stands on a live airstrip, but even stranger to arrive in a town that looks like the Britain of yesteryear. Of course the first thing we had to do was to find a place to have an English breakfast. There were quite a number places serving.
After that greasy experience was over with, we begin what would be a four hour journey up the rock. Stopping to check out the caves, both natural and man-made (over many years and many wars), as well as to chill with the Barbary Apes, it was a much needed bit of physical fitness for us both (also good training of the Rif Mountains to come in the next few days).
Ended the day with some shopping at Marks & Spencer, Next, and other fine UK shops and of course to the local pub for a pint.
Gibraltar is like a piece of Britain lost in time. Where the shops still look as they did in the 60´s, the pubs still have the old decor, no refurbishment has been done on the buildings in ages, and of course the smoking ban is no in.
It is a must see, if not just to say you were there.
Today was a wee bit more relaxed. Checked out what Tarifa, the small town we chose to stay in over the ugly and bigger Algesiras. Spent some time on the beach looking out at Morocco and taking it all in.
We catch the 11 am ferry tomorrow to Tangier. Ready for the experience of the harbour, but sure we will be surprised once we actually arrive. Will make sure to describe any events within the next couple of days. Will also post pictures once we get there seeing as the USB port at the hostal we are at currently does not seem to like our camera (some are now up, but it takes ages to do so).
Monday, November 3, 2008
The Alhambra
Arriving in Granada on Saturday we realised that the numbers of people granted access to the Alhambra daily was limited. So, after three days of waiting and enjoying the lovely rainy and cold weather Granada had to offer, we made it in today.
However, the palaces inside the last bastion of the Islamic Empire on Mainland Europe were truly a site to be seen. The main Nasrid Palaces are beautifully covered in arabic script, design and tiles. We will attach some more pictures from the trip tomorrow.
Now onward to Tarifa, Spain´s most southerly point.
Tom and Katie
All of that waiting gave us plenty of time to enjoy the Spanish way of life. Basically coffee, food and wine, well and a bit of shopping, seeing as Katie did not pack for the cold weather.
After getting sick of the tortilla de patatas (basically potato omelette) we discovered all of the shawarma and arabic food that Granada has to offer. Delish!
Last night we actually came across a devine spanish tapas retaurant that did not cost an arm and a leg. For those headed to this city, check out Bodega Castaneda in the Arab quarter. Wine for 2 euro a glass, which comes with free tapas and gorgeous plates of meat, cheese and veg. 25 euro left us stuffed.
However, the palaces inside the last bastion of the Islamic Empire on Mainland Europe were truly a site to be seen. The main Nasrid Palaces are beautifully covered in arabic script, design and tiles. We will attach some more pictures from the trip tomorrow.
Now onward to Tarifa, Spain´s most southerly point.
Tom and Katie
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